How to make melt and pour
clear soap to incorporate mica curls
Mineral Makeup application pictures
Cold Process Soap-making and
Micas...what works, what doesn't
How to make mica painted soaps
Materials needed to mica paint the Bearded
made with Fine Arts Bearded Iris mold.
(Any other soaps, just use the same method, only your choice of
colors and mold.)
Micas: Flower color: Purple Shimmer or Passionate Pink (select one)
Leaves: Majestic Green
Background Bronze Shimmer, or Shimmering Gold (select one)
Highlights: Diamond Cluster, Shimmering Gold, White Pearl
Brushes: 2 (if you have a brush like you would use for makeup to
it makes a nice sheen to the finished product).
Liquid: I personally prefer to mica paint with a dry brush.
2 Paper towels or Kleenex, one to lay the soap on while you are
working on it, and one for clean up.
Hold the iris that has been molded and scented in your hand, with
the flower up. Take the wider of your paintbrushes, and apply
the mica smoothly to the flower part of the soap, including the
center or stamen area.
Wipe brush off well with your dry paper towel or Kleenex. Now dip
the end of the brush into the purple shimmer (or passionate pink
if that was your selection) mica, and apply slowly to the flower
area. Do not be alarmed when the flower looks streaked, and not
Now, when you have coated with one coat of
the mica, start again coating with the same color, directly over
where you already applied mica. DO NOT wet your brush again before
you do this… you want it dry…. apply up to 4 or 5 coats, till the
flower looks pretty smooth in appearance. Dust off your paintbrush
to remove any loose mica possible. It is easy to do if you tap it
lightly on the side of your table.
Still using a dry paint brush, dip your brush tip into the diamond
cluster, and apply to the center area of the iris…in the little
dip, and blend it out to shake out any loose mica from your brush.
Now, lay your soap down on the paper towel, and we will apply your
choice of either color of mica to the background and leaf
area of the soap, including the sides.
Now, the flower is almost done, so we will move to the leaves. Again,
we will use the finer brush for the leaves. Dip the end area into
the majestic green mica….and follow the creases of your soap leaves,
go from the base of the soap (bottom of the flower area) and pull
your brush upward in all 5 of the leaf lines.
When you have completed one coat on all, go
back and put on 2 more coats, using your dry brush.
Shake any loose mica possible from your dry brush. If there is extra
mica sitting loose on your soap, just blow it away… it will make
the air sparkly, and will get it away from your soap, all at the
We are now ready for the background. Again, hold your soap if you
can in your hand. It will be easier to paint it that way. We will
use the broader of your brushes for this area.
Dip that brush into the bronze shimmer mica.
You need to apply these coats more heavily than the previous coats…and
again from the bottom area of the iris, paint in an upwards motion
to get the bronze to the entire background, around all of the iris
leaves, and down the sides…so if you look at your soap, at least
from the top, it is all mica covered.
Now when you are done, go back over the
background 2 more times with the bronze, each coat should be applied
as thickly as you can, without leaving mica “globs”. If you do happen
to have one of the cosmetic brushes like the one you use to apply
powder blush, just lightly dust all the bronze area. It will give
a real smooth polished finish. If you don’t have a blush brush,
just use the widest brush you have, dry, and just “polish” it.
Now, still holding the soap, we will do highlights…again we will
use the fine brush, and dip it into the white pearl color this time…we
are going to highlight the iris itself now…so put your loaded brush
down to the points where your flower leaves come out. And press
lightly, so you will deposit, or paint some of the mica at the first
half inch of the leaf, as it comes out of the center…now, lightly,
brush the mica left and right horizontally just to make sure the
pearl color is in the veins of the flower. There are 6 flowers petals,
the 6th one is small, and in the center, or the top area of the
stamen. Shake out the brush well of all loose mica.
Now, still using that dry, finer brush that you just dusted out,
dip the very tip into the bronze shimmer mica, and just paint only
the stamens of the iris flower…do it lightly just to give it a shimmery
look that differentiates the stamens from the rest of the area.
Now, you are finally ready to do the back of your soap if you desire.
Use the largest brush you have, and dip it into the bronze shimmer
mica, and dust it on the soap. You may need to do this twice; then
again, polish the soap and mica with the largest sized brush you
How to make melt and pour
clear soap to incorporate mica curls
You certainly can use the micas for coloring M&P, that’s ALL
I use! The best results with micas are used in a clear base, as
mica works on the light refracting off of the mica minerals to generate
the color...it will sort to some degree in opaque soaps, it will
color it, but not give off that eye catching WOW look that you get
in the clear. No, the colors don’t bleed, and they are pretty sturdy
too under the lights, where the other colorings just fade out.
How much you use is a totally personal thing I think.
I can tell you how to make the soaps I make. And I have made
several hundred a week, as I sell them like they are going out of
We formulate all our soap bases with the oils used in massage,
the sweet almond, vitamin E, evening primrose, and shea butter.
They really moisturize the skin. All the soaps you see pictured
there are made from our clear soap base.
How I do it is to cut off how ever much of the base
I want to work with and microwave it untill its melted. Some folks
prefer to melt the soap base on the stove top in a double boiler,
so whatever you prefer will work.
I then scent it with my fragrance oil, (I use about 1/2¼ of
an ounce for 2# of the soap base) and stir it in well into the clear
base. If you get a cloudy look to your soap base when you add the
fragrance oil, just keep stirring, and it will incorporate into
the soap, and then clear up.
I pour my molds about 3/4 of the way full of the clear,
scented base. Now I wait till the soap in the molds is cool enough
to stick your pinky finger in without having it to hot...then, I
just stick in my "mica curls", (these are made with my trusty potato
peeler, just sliced directly off the plain M&P soap piece
before it was melted down, I peel about 2 cups of the curls, throw
them into a plastic bag, and put about 1/4 to 1/3 teaspoon of any
color mica I want them to be, then seal the top, and shake it for
a few seconds, and wellla, soap curls !
You can also use imbeds if you want to, say hearts,
or whatever and do the same thing with the mica and a plastic bag,
and that works too.
If you get some bubbles in the soap base when you pour it,
just spritz it with the plain isopropyl alcohol you get at the grocery
store for 50 cents a pint. and it immediately pops the bubbles.
When the soap cools pretty much, I nuke again a small amount
of clear base, and when it is out, I put in any color of mica I
want the back to be, say shimmering gold..to about 2 cups of melted
base, I would add about 1/2 a teaspoon of the gold mica, and stir
it...and then scent it, and spray the dickens out of your cooled
soaps still in the mold with the alcohol so the back will adhere
to the soap, and then immediately pour the melted gold (or whatever
color you want) back on them, (the alcohol spray is what makes the
hot soap adhere to the cooled soap already in the mold). When the
back is then cool, flip them over and pop out your pretty soap!
This way, you use very little mica, and they look gorgeous,
If you want though, you can just color the whole soap base with
mica, and pour them in a solid color, or you can do some swirling
with micas too.
I have received some great information from one of our customers,
Cheryl, whom I owe big for this tip on getting the colors that normally
fade out in melt and pour soaps, make it hold the wonderful colors
we all love Cheryl sells her soaps at a shop with lots of windows
with bright sunshine streaming in. Here is what she has said, and
with her permission I have reprinted it here.
I was delighted to find the inhibitor because I love the
sapphires & diamonds which fades pretty quickly in bright sun.
The inhibitor is specially formulated for bath and body products,
and was sold by a company that sells ingredients for both bath and
body + candles. I used 1 teaspoon inhibitor per pound in melt
and pour, which is really all I use the mica for - I love how it
looks in clear soaps. (So I am afraid that I can't testify
for the inhibitor in CP or another process.) The inhibitor
didn't make a noticeable difference in terms of foam or product
This soap called starry nights was made August 20, 2007 (over
3 months ago) and kept in a very sunny room.
Thanks Cheryl, this is a wonderful tip for our soap making friends.
If you have a tip you would like to share with us, just send it
to us at firstname.lastname@example.org
By Joan Trebilcock, RN,
Micas from Sweetscents.. how to use them
All our micas are all cosmetic grades. The US
Government regulates all these regulations. To use the micas or glitters in lotions, hair gels, body gels,
or any combination of ingredients that are a thick liquid.. To use
mica in lotions (The most economical), simply put the desired amount
of lotion, gels etc. in a plastic bag, say to make 16 oz. of lotion,
pour the lotion into a bag, then scent it if you want, then add
about ½ of a teaspoon of mica.. (the whites and golds seem to be
the prettiest), If you prefer more color, or more sparkle look,
simply add more mica, and squish the mixture together until you
reach the desired effect of sparkle. Then snip off a tiny corner
of the bag, and squeeze the product into your bottles, or whatever
you are using. This way, you don’t waste product down the sides
of your container.
To use mica in the bath saltsFirst, make your bath salt base, (and put into a large plastic bag)..say
from sea salts, Epsom salt, baking soda, or whatever recipe
you use, then add the fragrance and shake well to blend the fragrance
into the salt. I then divide the salts into 2 plastic bags,
and in 1 of the bags, say if you have 3 cups of bath salts, put
about half of 1 teaspoon of mica in it, (you can use more or less
mica to give it color or your desired effect), seal the bag, and
shake well to disperse the color and or sparkle of the mica.
In the 2nd bag, which also has been scented, I put a
whiteish color mica..say diamond cluster, or our snowflake color,
and shake well to coat the bath salt crystals, and then, I will
pour the 2 bags together in 1 bag, and shake only 2 or 3 times,
to incorporate the first and second color.. if you over blend the
2, it will give a lighter effect of your first bag of color. You
are then ready to put into your bath salt tubes, or jars, or whatever
container you are using.
To use micas in cold process soaps.. what works, and what doesn’t.
The colors of mica we carry that either fades out entirely or will
mutate are:Dark Blue, Cloud blue, royal peacock, ocean blue, blue
pearl, peacock pearl. Carmine red, Old fashioned Rose.Majestic
Green, Jade Green, Teal, Teal Pearl, Green Pearl. Lavender Shimmer,
amethyst shimmer, passionate pink, iridescent violet, magenta Sparkle,
Purple Haze Shimmer, Pink Pearl. Our beautiful cactus blossom holds
up very well in cold process soapmaking.
Mica that work in cold
process soap.White colors that work: All white colors, Transparent white, Snowflake,
White Gold, Diamond Cluster, Pearl Flake, All Sparkle, Angel Wings
Glimmer, City Lights Evening Star.
Red and purple Green tonesBurgundy Shimmer comes out a pretty plum color medium shade, Purple
Shimmer turns a beautiful violet, Plum Shimmer turns out a light
plum color, Cactus Blossom remains a beautiful rose color, Merlot
Glimmer turns out a pretty light wine color, Plum Pearl and purple
pearl turn out light colors. Egyptian Green comes out a pretty
Brown & Metallic Tones that work
Autumn Masterpiece, Brown Pearl, Tigers Eye, Cappuccino Shimmer,
Bronze Shimmer, 24 Karat Gold, Shimmering Gold, Chrome Shimmer,
Pewter Shimmer, Golden Satin, Bronze Pearl, Copper Pearl.If you
use the micas in crock-pot process, hot process, oven process, and
add the micas the very last thing before pouring into the mold,
the micas will hold up well, as the lye has saponified.
Eyeshadows galore, great application looks, from one of Sweetscents
customers! Thanks to Capri G., who graciously gave us permission
to post her photo, of the wonderful look you can get with different
colors of Sweetscents eyeshadows. Here are pictured the following
colors on her lids:
On the inner corner of the eye is Sweetscents 12th Night, in
the center of the lid is Royal Peacock, and on the outer edge of
the eye is Purple Shimmer.. Very pretty tones, don't you think?
Here is another of our customers, Becky from UK that has done
a beautiful look on her eyes with the Sweetscents pigments, she
has applied the colors with a wet brush (foiling), and got
an absolutely beautiful look. She has used "Iridescent Purple" wet
on inner lid and then applied "Aborigine Aqua" wet on out lid, crease
and lower liner for the dramatic look that really makes your eyes
stand out. The minerals make it fairly easy (after some practice)
to achieve looks like this. Don't be afraid to experiment with different
colors and techniques to get your own personal look.
Here is another beautiful look with Becky from
UK, she has used:
Golden Green packed over my lid dry
-Emeralds and Diamonds dry in crease (what a beautiful colour!!!!!)
-Russet wet as liner
-Just a black eye kohl under